Archive for April, 2011

Hello again everyone!

I’ve returned from the wilds of western Kentucky, and now that I’m nice and relaxed (it’s hard to do much else when you’re in a place that doesn’t have a 3G signal,) I wanted to tackle one of the bigger topics related to miniatures wargaming: threat range.

Word overload warning: There is no quick and easy way to cover threat range with the amount of detail I am hoping to get into, so this topic is going to be broken into two installments. This article will define threat range, and explain why it is an important concept to understand. A (hopefully quickly forthcoming) follow up article will discussing ways to maximize the effects of your threat ranges, and minimize your opponent’s ability to project threat.
To add extra clarity, I will try to break up the text with sexy, sexy diagrams (disclaimer: they will only be truly sexy if you’re into circles with lines coming out of them,) but there’s still going to be a good amount of reading. Do not start reading this article if you wanted to do anything productive in the immediate future. ;)

With that said, lets get started!

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So here are my first impressions on the game infinity. I’ve only played a game of it at Kingdom-con and have read all the rules. If in the future I pick it up I’ll definitely give a more in depth review of the game. For now, you’ll just have to settle for this :)

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Today is a good day to imbibe a second dose for this week of those sickly sweet  Soda Pop miniatures!

In addition to our interview  earlier this week we also wanted to toss out some major kudos to MIKH who recently finished sculpting “One shot” which is the newest addition to the Relic Knights miniatures range.

For those that don’t know  MIKH is obviously Sculptor of miniature models. In addition to that MIKH was also the former Rakcham lead sculptor and sculptors team manager,  a freelancer since 2006, with 1 year pasted on Asmodée’s HellDorado,  is back to full freelancing job.

I’d like to present to our readers a wonderful Image of One shot in all the glory and detail that you can only really see from the greens.

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This is a game I played against a friend at Kingdom-Con. The commentary during the video isn’t too much because I thought I would have to re-dub it because of all the background noise. Turns out my little Flip handled it just fine. It was an odd fight but I hope you guys enjoy it!

The game is 35 points and Features Kaya for Circle of Orboros and Kraye for Cygnar.

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I recently had the pleasure of interviewing game creator John Cadice of Soda Pop Miniatures. This is the company releasing the new game Super Dungeon Explore (SDE) and the up and coming game Relic Knights. He was nice enough to give me a super carbonated sip of the upcoming Soda Pop releases. Hand Cannon also got it’s hands on some super secret Super Dungeon Explore preview cards too! I think all you readers out there are in for quite a treat with this one.

On to the Questions!

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This article is another in my series of Basic Painting Techniques. In this one I’ll cover using metallic paints, and how to highlight and shade them to have an effect similar to Non-Metallic Metals (NMM). Only by using metallic paint can you get a nice shiny surface that will reflect light, and appear like real metal instead of gray or gold paint. This is not to say that NMM techniques are bad, or worse than using metallics, they just don’t have the shine that one gets from using paint with shiny bits of mica in it. Using metallic paint is also easier for the beginner, and a little more forgiving than NMM techniques. I will cover NMM in the future, but since this is a Basics Painting Series article, we’ll cover the easy stuff first.
All Metallic paints used in this article are from Games Workshop, unless otherwise specified. All inks and washes used are Formula P3, unless otherwise specified.

Brushes:
I don’t suggest using a kolinsky sable, or natural hair brush for metallic paints. The paint contains pigments, just as any other miniature paint, except it also contains finely ground bits of mica. Mica is always much more coarsely ground than the pigments, and as a result of it being a gemstone that is fairly coarse in comparison to paint pigment, it will ruin a natural hair brush very quickly. The mica bits are also very sharp, can split, and break the hairs of a natural brush very easily and quickly.

The best brushes to use when painting with metallic paints are synthetic hair brushes, with the highest quality being Gold Sable. These will withstand a lot of abuse, and the tip will only curl slightly. All synthetics curl, it’s just a fact, and something a painter has to adjust to when painting with a synthetic brush. The Formula P3 brushes are excellent, but any brush made of Gold Sable synthetic hairs will work just as well.

Have a couple different sizes of brush for different sized areas. I use three sizes myself; the Formula P3, Base Hobby Brush, Work Hobby Brush, and Fine Hobby Brush. These are roughly equivalent to a size 2, 1, and 0 respectively. This should be more than enough to handle almost any size of metallic painting jobs you may need them for.

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Here is the trailer Whitemoon Dreams will be airing at E3 for the highly anticipated Warmachine video game. It was previewed at this year’s Kingdom-Con in San Diego. Be sure to also check out my video of the Q&A session.

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Here is the Q&A session after the airing of the E3 trailer at Kingdom-con. Sorry for the poor audio at some points but its mainly due to the fact that the people asking questions were far behind me and sometimes the speaker was softly spoken. I hope you guys enjoy it.

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I wanted to take a little bit of time to go over some of the companies out there who make some wonderful products that I tend to use when making conversions, or custom base work.

 

 

zonagrp
Zona tools makes some wonderful hand tools like hacksaws, mitre boxes, pin vices and other wonderful hobby tools. These sorts of tools all come in very handy when working on cutting plasticard, wood or metal for use in terrain or scenic bases. Some of their tools varying price & durability, even the higher end items are still priced fairly and worth picking up. the smaller size of these tools is perfect for someone with even the smallest of places to store their hobby supplies, and also makes them much easier to work with.

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Masters Track : Of Challenges and Lists

Master’s Track Overview

Master’s Track is an article series designed at following a player attending a Masters or Hardcore tournament in at least one Major Con during the tournament season. Each series begins with an article detailing faction and caster selection as well as initial list thoughts for the targeted events. Following faction and caster selection, there will be a spotlight on each caster selected to show the development of the lists used with that caster, successful strategies implemented, ideas gone wrong and general play notes. Finally, there will be the tournament reports for the events the Master.s track article was aimed at.

I was debating exactly what caster I should use in place of pNemo in my list selection when I saw that PG_Bulldog placed in the Adepticon Hardcore with Zerkova. This result is much like what I’m trying to accomplish with Darius, and it made me think of a challenge I could throw out there.

The Challenge:
I name a faction I will be playing, and Bulldog names a faction he will be playing. Bulldog will pick a model or unit from my faction that I must play at full FA. If the model does not have a FA, I must use at least 3 copies of it. Likewise, I will pick a model or unit from Bulldog.s faction that he must use at Max FA, or at least 3 copies of in case of FA:U.

I named Cygnar, Bulldog picked Sword Knights!

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