The Warmachine Two-Player Battle Box: Painting Menoth

Two-Player Battle Box – Painting Menoth

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For those of you following along at home this is the next stage in my series on the Two Player Battle Box for Warmachine. first we had looked at Assembling the miniatures. then we looked at Painting the Khador half of the box set. This time we will be looking at painting the Khador half of the box. This article is aimed at players new to the hobby or those who want a simple quick and effective way to get nice tabletop minis painted and ready to play!

A few things we definitely learned along the way with this article. The first of which will be something that will help newer painters out. The first tip is don’t try to paint everything at once. Group your models into small manageable chunks.  My suggestion would be to start with the Warjacks, then move on to the Infantry, then finish with your Warcaster. Not only will it be easier to manage but you will have greatly improved by the time you reach your small detailed Warcaster.

 All paints used in this article are Formula P3, unless stated otherwise. Vallejo Model Color (VMC) was also used, and will be specifically pointed out when needed.

First Lets take a look at what we will need for this project

Brushes used:

  • Base hobby brush – Used for the majority of work laying down the base metallics and colors
  • Work hobby brush – Used for touching up areas where more finesse and finer control is needed
  • Small drybrush – Used for the base work
  • Fine studio brush – Used for detail work on eyes, and on gauges on engine
  • One large acrylic paint brush – Used for applying the quick shade

 Paints used:

  • Menoth white Base
  • Thamar Black
  • Sanguine Base
  • Exile Blue
  • Khador Red Base
  • Khador Red Highlight
  • Ember Orange
  • Boot Strap Leather
  • Hammerfall Khaki
  • Cryx Bane Highlight
  • Rhulic gold (The new black label. Its wonderful)
  • VMC oily steel

Other materials:

  • Army painter quick shade strong tone
  • Static grass
  • Black primer
  • Matte spray sealer
  • Lacquer thinner – to clean your brush


Step 1: Prime black

The first step is to get nice coverage on your miniatures with the primer. If you are using a spray can primer what i find this works best by first laying them on their front and giving them a few quick passes from various angles.  Then let them sit as directed on the can until dry. You will then flip them over and do the same to the back side.  Once you have done this you can stand them up for one last spray from the top.

If you have missed any deep crevasses you can always hit them with a bit of Thamar black or some brush on primer


Step 2: Choose color scheme – Interdiction of the Covenant

Some people find painting white to be one of the hardest things to do. I decided that I wanted to deviate from the standard Menoth scheme a bit so I chose the Interdiction of the Covenant theme found in Superiority. For an amazing example of this color scheme you need to look no further than Leo Carson-DePasquale’s paint job of the Vessel of Judgement in No Quarter 38.

The paint scheme for those unfamiliar with it is white armor plates, with a few areas of dark blue plating and cloth. The menofix is painted in red. the Majority of the metal is golden metallics with most of the working gears being in silver tones.


Step 3: Paint your Whites

Id like to note I broke my usual rule of the messy metallics first as I felt painting the white would be messier as it is in more places and would take a few coats to get a solid layer down.. After completing this however I think you could do the metallics first if you wanted to.

So for the first step I wanted to paint all the armor plating that I knew would be white. For this i applied multiple thin coats of  Menoth White Base. I would say all told I probably laid down three coats.

Don’t worry if it looks splotchy at first, as long as you lay down a nice thin coat you can keep adding more thin layers until it is a nice solid white.

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Step 4: Paint the Blue

After I had achieved a nice layer of white I moved on to the dark blues. I decided to go with Exile blue which coated quite nicely over the black primer. This color does need to go down before the metallics as in many of the locations like the shoulder plates, and the armor on the arms where the metal spikes are it would be hard to do this after the metallics stage.

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Step 5: Painting the menofix red

I decided to go with Sanguine Highlight for the color of my menofix as I felt it would fit in better with the tones i was using with the other colors. Working carefully I painted in the menofix on each shoulder being careful not to get any on the blue. this took about two coats for complete coverage.

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Step 6: Touch Up Blacks

Before moving  to the metallics I went around with Thamar Black and touched up all the areas that had white and blue paint on them so that the gold and silver metallics covers would look nice and crisp when painted over the areas they were to be painted.

Step 7: Paint the Metallics

I used the VMC Oily Steel for painting in the pistons in the waits, arms and parts of the legs. I also used it for below the boiler on the back of the warjack.

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I then moved on to using the new Rhulic Gold to paint in a nice warm rich gold color everywhere else on the Jack that was still black and waiting for some color.

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The new rhulic ghold is wonderful and went on nice and smooth. It coated fairly consistently however I still went over it a second time to really bring out its color.

Step 8: Touch ups & base painting

This is now the time where you will want to go around and touch up all of your colors. fix any spots you missed or where you happened to get a bit of the wrong color in the wrong spot or on top of another color.

I also painted a coat of Bootstrap Leather on the flock on the base.

Step 9: Paint on quick shade

Now in this case the jack is too big to dip so using a nice large brush I liberally apply dip to the miniature with the brush.

Make sure you wear gloves so that it doesn’t get all over your hands

Once you have a nice even coat on the mini you can sit it down on your painting tray and go off to clean the brush using mineral spirits or Lacquer thinner. Once you get back you will notice that the quick shade is starting to pool into recesses.

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This is the time to have some paper towel handy to soak up excess quick shade as it pools in recesses or forms drips at bottoms of weapons or other pieces. All you need to do is rip of small bits of the paper towel and gently dab at the areas where it is pooling to make sure it doesn’t obscure detail and doesn’t dry thicker or darker than you want.

Be careful not to touch the higher areas where it will be drying faster or you could mar the effect and leave linty bits in the semi dried quick shade

 Step 10: Seal with matte sealer

It will likely take 24 hours for the quick shade to dry completely. After this however you can use similar instructions to the priming stage with a can of Matte sealer. This will allow you to add a bit more paint over top of the quick shade and really make the model pop


Step 11:  Touch ups and finishing details

The finishing details stage generally goes fairly quickly. This is where you will highlight the rivets, paint in the jacks glowing eyes, Dry-brush the base and add your front arc marks.

First you can highlight all the rivets where the armor is white with more Menoth White Base. Then using the edge of your brush lightly touch the top of the rivets to give them a highlight dot of the new color. While you’re at it you can also use the paint to highlight some of the edges of the jacks armor plating and doors. You don’t need to do very many locations just enough to help make things pop out.

I then used a mix of Exile Blue with a very small amount of Menoth White Base to make a highlight for areas that had the Exile blue. You can use a similar Ratio mix with the Menoth White Base and the Sanguine Highlight to use on the menofix on either shoulder as well.

Now it wouldn’t be menoth without a bit of fire. To pull off this glow effect I used a three-step process in the locations of the eyes, the grill on the head, the inferno mace, and on part of the back furnace.

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  • First I painted in the areas with Khador Red Base.
  • Second I then used Khador Red Highlight and painted over where I had before leaving only a part of the Khador Red Base showing through.
  • Third I placed a small dab of Ember Organge in the centre of the Khador Red Highlight areas.

Lastly I painted the Gauged on the side of the boiler. Carefully using Menoth White Base I painted in two circles, I followed this up with a small triangle of Khador Red Base, and a thin line of Thamar Black.

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Step 12: Base work

Moving on to the base I dry-brushed a layer of Bloodstone on the rocks on the ground. I then followed this up with a careful light dry-brushing of Hammerfall Khaki  to give the ground a bit more highlighting.

After this I used some Thamar black to dry-brush on small patches on the ground that would seem charred and marked by fire. I highlighted these areas with a Dry-brushing of Cryx Bane Highlight.

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For the last piece I added a tuft of static grass.  Once it was dry I carefully dry-brushed it with the Thamar Black, and the Cryx Bane Highlight to also give it that burnt out look parts of the ground around it had.

Last but not lease I used Exile blue to paint my front arc markings on either side of the base.


Thanks for following along I hope people new to the hobby have found this helpful and that Ii has made the prospect of painting your forces a little less intimidating. Now that I have the core process down on both forces I plan to finish them up as quickly as possible so that we can give them away as prizes.

– Geist

The Completed Model:

[singlepic id=1942 w=320 h=240 float=left] [singlepic id=1943 w=320 h=240 float=right]

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  1. Heiki said:

    Can you comment on how the new Rhulic Gold compares to VGC Glorious Gold or any other similar golds? A very simple comparison article on metallics could be quite useful. I have bought really quite a few metallics but have ended up using just the best of them (VMA is the best thus far but the range is limited). Feels like a waste that I did not have information when I first started buying paints.

  2. gannon said:

    Great work! Quick and simple shading. It helps protect the model as well. Thanks for the tute.

  3. Geist said:

    @Heiki: I’ll keep that article idea in mind. As for the new Rhulic Gold it is quite nice. Its a smooth paint. I find it needs two thin coats to get a nice even layer

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