Oriental Circle of Orboros: Part Two, the Celestial Fulcrum


Alright! Holy smokes, it has been a while. I hope some of you still remember this project. I finished the model featured in this article at about the time as the first article went out, but never got around to doing this article. Enough with the details, you’re here to see some more Oriental Circle models!


The paint scheme I used for this army was intentionally basic, quick and dirty, and heavy on the old airbrush. They were for a Journeyman League and I ended up painting the entire 35 point army in the 6 weeks we had. It’s not going to win any awards, but with the response on the first article, I thought it was worth sharing. I am going to show you how I painted my Celestial Fulcrum. Please note that all paints mentioned are P3 paints unless indicated otherwise.



For the green-ish rock I painted (as calling it Jade may not be 100% accurate), I used a greyscale base and then tinted the transitions with some inks. I started off with Greatcoat Grey as the first highlight on the black primer, followed by gradually adding more Morrow White to the grey, until reaching a pure white. After making sure the greyscale had dried, I tinted it using a very thin mix of Green Ink and a touch of Turquoise Ink.



Next up are the brass bits on the model. I painted them with Battlefield Brown to give them a solid base. I like using non-metallic paint as a base for metallic, as it can give the slightly translucent metallic paint more depth and a hint of another color to keep it interesting. On top of the brown, I painted Vallejo Game Color Brassy Brass and layered that up to Rhulic Gold, doing the final highlights with Brass Balls.



The axle keeping the entire contraption together was basecoated with Battlefield Brown, followed by some Bloodtracker Brown highlights. On top of these highlights I did a very rough wood texture by slowly blending in Jack Bone. In the last picture you can see I went a little bit too far. I ended up coming back with some glazes of Bloodtracker Brown to tie all the elements back together.



The grey metallic were very straight forward–going over the black primer with a solid base of Pig Iron, washing it down with a couple of thin layers of Armor Wash. I like using multiple layers because I have control over how dark I want to go. I did some highlights as well as some really quick weathering using Quick Silver.

Red Robes


Continuing on to the druids standing on the bamboo, I created some nice contrast with the green stone by adding deep red robes. I made sure not to go too bright to avoid the jolly Christmas look.
The Sanguine Base start was essential here. To tone it down some more, I washed it with multiple thin layers of Armor Wash until I liked the shade of the shadows. I reclaimed some of the shaded areas with Sanguine Base before finishing it of by blending in some Khador Red.

Black Robes


I wanted the robes to be multi layered, but bombing people’s eyes with another strong color didn’t seem like a great idea. So I reached for my safety blanket in the P3 pallet. Good old Coal Black. Now, I admit that this isn’t the greatest Coal Black layering, but give me a break. I blame the flash anyways…
Over the black base layered a mix of Thamar Black and Coal black until reaching pure Coal Black. Then I added some final highlights by mixing in a spot of Frostbite. The result is a black robe with a subtle hint of blue instead of the boring greys normally used to highlight black.

Rice Hats


Painting the hats is always a fun an quick process. Over the black primer, I gave it a messy over-brush of Bloodtracker Brown followed by a drybrush of Jack bone. When this dried, I watered down some Vallejo Burnt Umber pigments into something that looks an awful lot like dirty paint water. I painted that over the hats and let it sit for a while. What you end up with is a nice dusty, matt look.



I use a very basic skin color on these models, starting with the darker Khardic Flesh, shaded by blending in some Brown Ink. The highlights were done in 3 steps. First step was painting on some Khardic Flesh to regain some of the shaded areas. Step 2 was a layer highlight using Midlund Flesh and finally, I mixed in some Morrow White to finish it off.



Doing the final details on these models was pretty basic. I used the same gold/brass technique described earlier on the bracelets and other edge detailing. Once the whole thing was done, I did the OSL on the gem in his chest. How I did this you can find later in this article.


Turns out making a Zen Garden on a base is a lot of work,and I am not just talking about the building. Painting all the different elements is a little different from the normal couple of drybrushes.

Talking about drybrushing, the dirt was first drybrushed with some Battlefield Brown, followed by Thrall Flesh. I like using Thrall Flesh for my dirt as it has a hint of green in it, making it a little bit more interesting without making it overly complicated.



Again, starting over the black primer I painted a solid basecoat of Greatcoat Grey. Then I shaded and highlighted in a way I use a lot these days. It is inspired by the tiles on Geist’s diorama. I shaded the tiles on 2 sides of the square with two brush blending with Thamar Black and did the same thing to the other 2 sides of the square using Morrow White



Going for a quick and dirty approach, I started by painting over the segments with thin Ordic Olive, going over it a few times. Then I did the same thing again, blending in some Necrotite Green. Lastly, I blended in some Morrow White and painted two tiny lines on the top and bottom of each segment.



I wanted these rocks to have another texture than the smooth slate. Over the black basecoat, I drybrushed it with some Greatcoat Grey and Morrow white. Just to give it a bit of a dusting of brown, I used the same pigment mix used on the hats.

Lily Pads


What’s a Zen garden without Lily pads? I wanted to have a couple of them floating on the water. I made them really easily by using a hole punch to make a couple of circles out of some thin plasticard. Then, to make them into leaves, I cut a wedge out of the circles.

After sticking them to some sticky tack on an old paint pot, I painted on a base coat of a 50/50 mix of Exile Blue and Cygnus Yellow, creating a nice dark green. I made a pattern on them by blending more yellow into the mix and painting increasingly smaller lines all converging towards the center.

What’s very important is not to forget to seal them very well afterwards. The water effects products often contain quite nasty materials and you don’t want paint flaking off in places where something is covered by water effects.

With all elements of the base painted, it was time to seal it. After sealing it, I added some tufts, some clump foliage and a variety of flocks. To finish off the pond, I destroyed an old large brush, normally used to paint walls. I cut off small clusters of bristles and glued them into the side of the pond, creating reeds. Then I poured in the water effect (after I took the water lilies out) and when that cured about half way, I dropped the water lilies in.



With everything painted and flocked, it was time for the last step. All the spots that would be the “Objects” in the OSL (Object Sourced Lighting) were painted with a couple of thin layers of Morrow white to achieve a solid white coat. With OSL it is important to have the object that is projecting the light be the brightest color in the glowing area, otherwise it will look off.

Then using the airbrush, I sprayed Meredius Blue on all of the general OSL like the gems on the druids and the center sphere and came back with some pure white in the centers.

Because the idea behind the Fulcrum is that each orb has its own attack, I painted each in a color to represent their attack types.
For the Flame Blast, I went in with the airbrush with Heartfire more towards the center and with some Khador Red around the gem. To blend it all together I gave it a couple of glazes of very thin Red Ink.

Winter’s Rage was a tough one, because I wanted it to look slightly different from the other Arcane Blue gems. I decided to go with the paler Arcane Blue. This one was glazed with a thin mix of Blue Ink and Turquoise Ink.

The lightning bolt orb got the same treatment but with Necrotite Green and a spot of Meredius Blue. I used a glaze of very thin Green Ink to finish this one off.


And that’s it! The Celestial Fulcrum in all its glory. A fairly quick and straight forward paintjob that fits in nicely with the other models of the army. It was a lot of fun and very interesting, as the base took more work than the actual model. In the end I am very happy with how the army turned out and it has a nice place in my display cabinet.

I am relieved to finally publish this article as it has been something I really wanted to do for about a year now. I want to thank you for your patience. You will see me sometime in the future, either finishing off this series, or starting a new series on a secret project that I started working on about 1.5 years ago that is finally getting to the final stages.

I leave you with this crappy 360° rotation GIF, enjoy!




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  1. MasterRabbi said:

    Thanks for sharing! Your base is great and descriptions helpful. Glad to see this army again, glad to know it is possible. I had originally played with an Oriental theme for my wolds, but gave up on it due to time and my scheme shifting.

  2. jamjam said:

    Amazing work mate, and very ambitious project.

    I’d say gloss coat the jade parts!

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