/puts on sweater vest and loafers
Hello, little Johnny . . . this week we’ll be exploring the strange new feelings you’re having; your mother is concerned about those knives and the disappearance of the neighborhood pets . . .
Wait, no, wrong speech 🙂
Welcome back, folks! As some of you may have noticed, I’ve gone to a once every two weeks article, not out of design, but rather because real life is super-busy and my publisher has been egging me on. But I’m back! This week I’ll be showing you how to speed-paint a Kodiak using washes and the Zenithal priming technique.
This particular combination came about when I realized that our own Dark Omen’s charity tournament, Boost for a Cure, was coming up, and I hadn’t gotten my miniature donation ready yet. Ack, can’t let HCO crew down! I felt like since they were our own guys, I needed to give at least a heavy jack. A word on their charity raffle: you don’t have to be present to win, they will take donations online, and there’s far cooler minis than mine to win as well as the Kodiak below! This year is a special one for the Dark Omen crew, as their friend Sarah Goodman suffers from the very disease they’re fighting against with their donations, and the charity is The Epilepsy Foundation of CT.
So let’s see how easy it is to paint a jack quickly! I took a lot more pictures of in-progress than I normally do, so hopefully it helps.
Whew, done. There we go, night fighter 🙂 Just kidding, but for zenithal, you really want a fully primed model, in all the nooks and crannies. Next you choose the darkest version of your color and . . .
I chose Hull Red as my color. Now while I’m using an airbrush, zenithal works for different shades of primer too, so if you’ve got a scale, you can use this technique. Now while it might look like I hit all his nooks and crannies, I actually painted at a straight level and slightly above. This leaves the black primer on the very underside parts, exactly where you’d expect the deepest shadows.
The next step up is using the scarlet red at an above angle, and not dropping below a 45 degree angle. This is the last application of zenithal, and you can really see how the automatic highlighting is working. Now I made a mistake in that I used the overhead, but didn’t choose a direction (from the right or left). It still works, but it’s just not as effective. Learn from my screw-ups!
Here you can see where I had to abandon the idea of using only washes to paint him (it was worth a try). A red wash has been applied to the plates, and that works well, but the metal plates I wanted to make darker didn’t go down enough. But I did notice an interesting effect on the reds, and the PP Armor Wash created an interesting effect.
So with my new plan to wash the whole mini in Armor Wash, I went ahead and blocked out the brass and silver parts, as well as Cryx Bane Base on the shoulder pads. Now if you’re going for the classic red Khador look, stop touching the red plates. They rock, they’re rich, they’re pretty. Me? I want to see what happens when Armor Wash goes big!
Shiny! I actually quite like the effect, but a lot of folks will find the red too dark. It’s definitely too shiny. Let’s see what we can do about that.
Satin finish does the job and brings down the shine. Digging it now. But . . . that red could stand to be a little deeper . . .
Another red wash on the plates, and carefully-painted heartfire in both his eyes and firebox. Only one thing left . . . basing and photoing!
A bit of forest, a few leaves, and you have a Khador jack, dark and brooding, ready to pound you to make himself feel!
Time to paint this model (including dry times): 3 hours. And that’s with me getting experimental and not rolling with a logical pathway first. If you went with the brighter red and didn’t have to satin down the shine, you can cut an hour off. It took longer for the basing to dry!
Remember, you can win this Kodiak and far more by donating to the charity raffle being held by Dark Omen Gaming: Boost for a Cure!
See you next time, friends and fiends.