Magnetic Hold : Cipher/Inverter/Monitor

I figure the upkeep name is actually a great segue into some articles I’ll be working on here and there about magnetizing models to keep your gaming bags a little lighter. Since I have the name, I should start with the faction I guess.

Recently I came across a pretty good deal on CoC. While I was super happy to get my hands on two prime Axioms (Axiomi? Axen? I like Axen, we’ll go with Axen), it unfortunately had 12 heavy vectors with it. There’s no way I think I’ll eve use that many heavies in a game, even at 75 points, so I’m going to magnetize them so I can cut down to half that number in my bag.

Luckily, there were a few boxes that weren’t assembled, so I’ll start with the Cipher/Inverter/Monitor heavy vector kit.

First off, a list of supplies:
-Drill with 1/8″ and 1/4″ bits.
-1/8″x1/8″ cylindrical rare earth magnets
-1/4″x1/16″ cylindrical rare earth magnets (there sere strong enough to hold on old metal scythean arms without them drooping)
-Razor saw
-superglue
– your regular assortment of tools to clean a plastic model (IE: exacto knife/ scribe’s tool)
-Paint (any color, we’re just going to use it to align a hole)
-greenstuff

First off , we’re going to assemble all the parts that won’t need to be magnetized to establish a base to put this model together. At this point we’ll be putting together the legs + lower torso (leaving the hood off), shoulders + upper arms, and all of the lower arms (with one exception: the macro-pummeler).

 

From there we’ll start with the shoulder joints. I’ll be using 1/4″ magnets; I carefully drilled out a 1/4th” hole in the shoulder divot where the hood would join. I cut the nob off of the upper arm, and drill out a 1/8th” hole centered where it was. Afterward, magnets are placed in. I repeat this process for the opposing arm, making sure that I use reversed poles for the other arm, so that left arm bits only work on the left arm, and right arm bits only work on the right arm. The poles in the shoulder joints are reversed for this same reason.

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Next we’re going to prepare the macropummeler (aka Dong-alator). This is the only part of the kit that needs to be modified. It would normally have a upper arm built in, but we’l l be removing it so that it magnetizes in the same spot. As seen here, I took a razor saw and leveled it off, then cleaned off with an xacto knife.

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Here you can see where I drilled out the right upper arm, then painted around the hole. I lined it up quickly while the paint was still wet on the macropummeler so that I could see where I needed to line up the new hole to make the magnets meet.

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Now I’m setting the upper arm in both shoulders. Here I use a long chain of 1/8″ magnets to make sure the poles are opposing. the 1/4″ magnet added in the next to last spot in the chain is there to make sure once glued and inserted that I can’t push that 1/8″ inch magnet in too far to make contact with the lower arm. If at all possible, magnets should be assembled BEFORE gluing them into holes and/or sockets to make sure that the poles align. (or are unaligned in the case of alternating shoulders)

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Moving from there, I go to the hood. I line up and drill a 1/4″ hole straight through the center of the nub that the shoulder hangs on. I drill the hole straight through, so that I can reinforce with a lot of glue on the inside. Again, I make sure that the poles are reversed, so that the left shoulder can’t hang on the right side of the torso and vice versa.

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Underneath the hood I add a small blob of greenstuff, then press the hood down on it. Once dry, I popped the hood off. This raises the hood about 1/16th” (if even that). This step is optional, but it makes the “face” of the jack fit on much better, as some faces tuck under the hood (which now don’t) and some set over the hood.

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We find the center of the nub on the back of the Inverter face and drill out a 1/8″ hole. Then we place the magnet in and level it out to be the same height as the nub. Afterward, trim away the rest of the nub (sorry for the crappy phone photo).

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We drill out the center of the hole for the face of the vector.

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Using the face we put a magnet in; then we add a 2nd magnet to the chain, and push it into the face hole with a little glue (not pictured). Once the glue is dry we add a magnet to the front of the face and prepare to push the next face onto the new magnet.

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With a little glue on, we push the next face onto the magnet (this helps us keep all the faces poles aligned). We’ll repeat again for the 3rd face.

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After a little rinse and repeat of putting magnets in all the arms, here are all the magnetized parts for the vector kit, and all 3 vectors assembled on the same kit.

final

One more thing to keep in mind, should you start building a 2nd magnetized kit: use pre-existing parts to build chains and inset magnets. This keeps all the parts consistent with poles though all models.

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