Saeryn & Rhyas, Talons of Everblight Part 1: Basing

First off, I owe all of you two apologies. One, I’m sorry for the poor phone quality pictures. I just moved halfway across the country and haven’t got lighting set up yet, so my phone is a try-hard. Secondly, sorry it’s been so long since my last post.

So, to start the project I had the idea that I wanted to create bases that thematic with the 10th anniversary box, and lent to the fact that Kromac was about to get whooped up on by the Everblight twins.

 

1 - pinsThe very first step is to get the twins put together, pinned, and ready to go. I always put an extra long pin in a foot to make sure that whatever I wind up basing them in, I have a long enough pin to sink through it all and into the plastic of the base. Note the slight misalignment on Saeryn’s shoulder; I cleaned it up with just a bit of green-stuff.

 

 

 

2 - contact points

Another thing really worth considering are contact points. While they don’t all have to be glued together, having parts touch each other in multiple places will strengthen the connection to the model and make the glued connection a bit more durable.

 

 

 

 

3 - rough sketch

Now we’ll do a bit of planning. One of the things that is pretty common in the newer sculpts is that they have a bit of movement to them. It’s fairly easy to convert a running pose into a climbing or jumping pose, and a bracing pose into a balancing pose just by changing the angle that the model is mounted at. This also crates a new type of motion with the model, so they are interacting with the battle field in ways more than just “standing on flat ground.”

 

 

 

4- cork and edgingTo start the base we’re going to cut up some cork and glue it down to the base. Then we need to skin it with a thin layer of green-stuff. When it dries we are going to go back and trim up the chipped and cracked edges established by broken cork.

 

 

 

 

 

5- top skinningOnce the sides are dry we start to clean up the edges around the cork and then put  a top skin on the uppermost pieces. (I did not do the lower piece as I was afraid I’d wind up leaving fingerprints somewhere else while working across such a large section.) We also start to sculpt in some cracks at the lowest level. These cracks will be bridged over in later details.

 

 

 

 

6 - base skin completeThis is the completed skinning of the tops of the bases. Edges are trimmed up to the edges of the cork and cracks are made to flow from piece to piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 - lip snakeWith the tops dry, we roll out some green-stuff  snakes to make the borders on the faces of these stones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8 - lip completeWe flatten out the snakes; carve in to these new edges to continue the cracks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9 - decoration snakesOnce the edges are dry, we roll out two snakes to points and lay them down to create details in the carved stones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10- decor completeAgain we flatten out the snakes and trim them up a bit. We sculpt in the continuation of the cracks we covered up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

0 - twins compLastly, we add some sand around the stones with Liquitex Coarse Texture gel. This is nice because it’s sculptable and allows you to build mounds of dirt. Then, while it’s still wet, we anchor in some Army Painter Battlefield rocks (loose cork chunks) and Brown Battleground (small ballast) to round out the surrounding rubble.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next step . . . on to painting and finishing off decorative basing.

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