A short time ago we received a batch of terrain stamps from Happy Seppuku Model works and loved how easy the stamps were to use and the fact you can use them over and over.
Since then I have spent a bit of time trying the stamps out with a few different type of putties, two part epoxies and modelling clays to see what I liked best. However in this article I plan on going over how with the terrain stamps and a little bit of creativity you can quickly create some unique looking basis with very little effort.
In Part one of this short series I plan to show you some step by step guides on how to make a more detailed wood plank base, a steel plated floor with various mechanical bits, and a rocky local covered with snow. All the bases I am working on for this tutorial are 50mm.
For supplies to build these bases I used:
- Two part grey epoxy putty mixed in equal amounts
- Thick and thin Cork board sheets
- Metal chain
- Metal tubing
- Metal rod
- Plastistruct I-beams
The tools and other necessities that were used are:
- A Hobby Knife
- Two pieces of metal tubing
- Various shaping tools
- cuticle cream (or other lip chap like substance)
Why the water and lip chap your probably wonder? Well I dip my fingers in the water while mixing the two part putty together. this helps prevent it from wanting to stick to my skin. As for the lip chap it can be used in conjunction with metal tools to keep them from sticking to the putty or on your finger to smooth out any finger prints from applying the putty to the base. I’d like to thank Brian Dugas one of Privateer Press’s Staff sculptors for the tip on the lip chap.
Lets start off with making a more detailed wooden plank base. Using some techniques I learned at the lock and load seminar with Sean Harrison and I will start off using the Wood Plank 1 stamp.
Step 1: Mix up some putty and spread it out in a thin layer onto the base. I find its best to add a little ball to the centre of the base and work outwards until it is spread in a thin somewhat even layer across the base. Then use some lip chap to smooth away all your fingerprints.
Step 2: Firmly press your putty and base onto the wood plank stamp. This will leave behind a nice plain wood plank texture.
Step 3: Take a small piece of metal tubing with a very thin edge and press one end into a plank. This will be used to make a “knot” in the wood.
Pro tip: On a 50mm base you can do as many as three knots, on a 40mm base max out at two, and on a small base no more than one.
Step 4: Now using the putty shaping tool that looks much like a hobby knife but is not as sharp you will make tiny little gentle cuts starting at the knots and moving away.
Step 5: Using the same tool I then use a similar method at the ends of the planks. this time I make my cuts a little deeper and wiggle the knife ever so slightly to widen the splits that you see.
Step 6: going back to the knots I make 8 cuts across them as if we were cutting up a pizza. this helps bring some texture to the knot that is in the middle of the plank.
Step 7: Now you will make gentle cuts along the length of the board. You will notice I stagger the cuts lengths and where they start and stop, this helps give the wood a more natural feel of an actual grain.
Pro Tip: You don’t need to really curve the lines for the grain, or curve them around the knot. Simple straight strokes will serve you best the human eye will do the rest.
Complete: And now you have a completed wooden plank deck that can be used for a wide variety of miniatures from a bar …